Exploring Southwark Cathedral’s Historic Spaces
A Church Steeped in History
According to the cathedral’s welcome statement, a church has stood on this site since at least AD 606. There’s archaeological evidence of Roman pagan worship here even earlier. Southwark Cathedral is recognized as the oldest cathedral church building in London, with layers of history reflecting the city’s religious and cultural evolution.
Arrival After a Day of Exploring
We visited Southwark Cathedral after walking through some of London’s most iconic sites. Our day included St. Paul’s Cathedral, the Millennium Bridge, the Bankside walk, and Borough Market. We timed our arrival at Southwark to experience the peacefulness of choral evensong.
We entered through the North West door and took our seats in the nave for the service. The quiet beauty of the music and the surroundings created a moment of stillness in our day.
Architecture, Light, and Sacred Spaces
One of the first things we saw was the baptismal font, placed between the north and south entrances. Throughout the cathedral, the architecture was stunning—towering stone columns, warm woodwork, stained glass windows, and soft lighting drawing attention to detail everywhere we turned.
We explored the side transepts where various monuments and memorials are displayed. The organ, both grand and graceful, added to the majesty of the interior. A special highlight was the William Shakespeare monument.
William Shakespeare’s Presence in Southwark
In the South Aisle, a window and a monument honor William Shakespeare. The monument, created in 1912 by Henry McCarthy, features a recumbent alabaster figure of the writer, set against the backdrop of 17th-century Southwark.
Shakespeare’s younger brother, Edmund, was buried in St. Saviour’s in 1607. While the exact location of his grave is unknown, an inscribed stone in the paving of the Choir commemorates him.
The stained glass window above, designed by Christopher Webb, was installed after World War II and features characters from several of Shakespeare’s plays.
The Choir and the High Altar Screen
As we moved toward the choir area, the magnificence of the High Altar Screen, also known as the Great Screen, came into view. Installed by Bishop Fox of Winchester in 1520, the screen has three bands of detailed carvings and statues. While many of the current features date from later periods, some original elements remain, including the small carvings of the Lamb of God and the pelican, symbols associated with Bishop Fox.
Smaller carvings in the doorway corners depict hunting scenes and may also be original. Whether or not the screen was fully completed before the Reformation is unknown, but its presence today is one of the most captivating parts of the cathedral.
The Retro-Choir and Lady Chapel
Toward the far back of the cathedral is the Retro-choir, built between 1215 and 1260. This section is the oldest complete part of Southwark Cathedral and is often described as one of the loveliest, with its 13th-century Early English design and peaceful atmosphere.
We spent time walking through the Retro-choir, pausing to look at the stone floor and the view back toward the south choir. Nearby is the Lady Chapel, quiet and light-filled.
Moving Toward the South Aisle
As we approached the southwest entrance, we passed through the south aisle. Late afternoon sunbeams streamed through the stained glass, casting soft golden light across the interior. The beauty of the moment left a lasting impression.
Stepping Outside: Layers of History Beneath
Outside the cathedral near the café and shop is a small archaeological chamber open to the public. Excavations in 1999 revealed several remarkable finds including a section of a Roman road from the 1st century AD, remnants of the Norman Priory wall, a 13th-century medieval stone coffin, and part of a 17th-century Delft pottery kiln, one of the few surviving arched kilns in Europe.
These discoveries give insight into the long and layered history of Southwark and the people who lived, worked, and worshiped in this area.
A Restful Ending to a Full Day
By the time we left Southwark Cathedral, we had walked more than seven miles. We ended our day with a quiet dinner at a nearby pub. Though our feet were tired, our hearts were full. Southwark was a beautiful and unforgettable stop on our journey through London.
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WOW!! WOW!!! WOW!!! Such unbelievable beauty. I have a feeling that these pictures don't begin to do justice to just how breathtaking it really was. What a wonderful trip! 7 miles is quite the day! lol. Glad you enjoyed
WOW! That is just spectacular. I bet it was even more awesome in real life than the pictures show. It is MASSIVE, too. Those excavation(s) that are showing there are really amazing. I am so glad you got to tour this. I'd say after walking 7 miles you EARNED a good dinner-xo Diana
wow, it's beautiful.
Those soaring Gothic arches always impress me. The light coloured stone used in this cathedral is so beautiful and adds light. What an amazing visit. Hope you enjoyed that dinner after your many miles of touristing.